When your doors do not lock or unlock properly, there are many choices for the failure. If one door consistently acts up, think actuator to the door or mechanical problem with the door lock itself. One of my doors would not work because the door button (really a cable) was frozen from rust and prevented the lock from locking or unlocking. If it takes allot of pressure to push down or pull up the button, think corrosion and mechanical failure. I replaced the cable. AMG part number for 1996 wagon: 5938896. I could easily lock or unlock the door manually once the cable was replaced.

If actuators are OK then a problem may reside in the driver's master door switch. This takes two screws to remove to examine connections or replace the switch. This may lead to one door constant failure or several or all but it whatever fails should be constantly not working.

In my case, once the mechanisms were corrected for the locks and 1 actuator was replaced (probably good), I had rotating doors that would not unlock. All locked all the time using the transmitter or master switch. 3 of 4 unlocked when using the transmitter, and 3 of 4 unlocked when using the master switch (failed less often then the transmitter which always failed). Oddly, I could never predict which door would fail. Sometimes the driver's door, sometimes the rear passenger, it always changed. The one thing in common was that the door that failed did not get a full 12 volts.

I found a used Code Alarm 1000 system for $50.00 so the search was on. I swapped receivers ... still had 3 of 4 not working. I had one heck of a time finding the location of the door relays. Ultimately, they were found under the center console on the doghouse.

I swapped the door open relay ..... everything works all the time. Finally!!!!! I suspect the relay was loosing voltage and short changed one door circuit at random.

For my Code Alarm 1000 in my 1996 H-1 wagon (apparently after market) the relay is made by Bosch part number: 0-332-204-150.

I hope this helps others trying to troubleshoot door problems. I have placed the installation manual and user manual on the IHOG site in the document section (thanks to Roberta Beauchamp the web master). To find the manual was a major endeavor. Gil

p.s. Tomorrow replace the shifter boot and neutral safety switch (boy, is this expensive!)

I had problems with my door locks for at least a year until I really dug into them and found the root causes.

The first problem was lubrication of the cable that connects the pop-up to the mechanism on the rear doors. This was easily solved by removing the cable and flushing with lubricant and then replacing.

The next problem was that the actuation rod from the actuator to the lock mechanism on the front doors was actually contacting the door frame metal and causing a drag. I re-bent the rod and no more issues. I discovered this by loosening the screw holding the actuator into the door to give the assembly some play, and it worked fine. Then I traced the issue to the rod. That was a tricky one. I would tighten the actuator into the door and then the system would not work well!

After spending many hours tracking those issues down and fixing them, I then had all the mechanicals working well enough to show me where the actuators were bad. I replaced one and the system worked for a while. Then another started dragging and I replaced it. No more problems for the last 18 months.

One thing I found is that when I got both bad actuators out of the system that the system really worked better than ever. It really shoots the locks open with a "thud" each time, like never before. I believe the actuators going bad might drag down the electrical current and cause the rest of them to perform poorly, but that's just a guess.

Dean
95HMCS

The door locks on my 93 do not work. If you press the lock button you can hear a clicking noise from the wire harness but nothing happens. I'm thinking that it might be the relay but I'm not sure. The relay that is on there has a ref #02334 and is a 6 pin. Does anyone know where i can get another one to test this theory?

I have a '94 VLCO that had the same problems, I fixed them by making sure that the GROUNDS in the doors and the harness are clean and tight, make sure you put some Dialectic grease on the all the connections...including the plugs...

Paul

In (IMHO) order of thought (but, these are both very close):

1. One of the door lock switches may be bad. This can combine with a marginal lock motor to do this, or

2. The lock motor has failed.

I'd first disassemble the switch and clean the contacts. Not terribly difficult, but remember how it came apart! If this doesn't work, replace the lock motor (this is a PITA to do, and make sure you remember:

1. Which end of the lock 'rod' is up, and

2. Which way the lock rod faced (in the lock motor from the inside or outside?), and

3. Which way the motor itself faced when it was in stalled.

In all three cases, it is possible to put it back together backwards so things won't work well.

Test well before putting on the door panel!

Peter